Member Benefits 046-4: Sand Buff Shine

Polymer Clay Membership SiteI ordered these and they came in. They are the BEST thing since sliced bread. I have never had such a smooth finish from regular wet/dry sandpaper. I’m a believer. Thanks Cindy for showing them to us. ~Kim-C >> This comment was originally posted at the following link: Sanding Polymer Clay with Micromesh Pads

WOW! So much valuable information here, even after over a year. I went to the precision-blue.com site for information and there was a link to our Cindy’s blog and MY QUESTION ANSWERED. I read this back in Sept’2009 as I faithfully follow her blog, but my memory fails me sometimes with so much info overflow. Age has nothing to do with it of course ;-) I’ve been using PYM ll for a couple of years?? and have never had a problem on polymer clay. BTW my question was going to be “has anyone re cured clay after spraying your project three times with PYM ll (my usual)? I have to make adjustments to a clay project done a month ago.” We are so lucky to have this site as a reference. Yay Cindy! ~Lawrence-S >> This comment was originally posted at this link: Preserve Your Memories II

I made these this weekend and used the same shape in the tutorial. After dipping in water, I briefly sanded each one with 1000 grit and strung on a chain with silver beads in between each bead. I’m a teacher and wore it to school today and had so many compliments on them! I spent most of the weekend on them but really enjoyed each step! Thanks, Cindy! ~Toni-H >> This comment was originally posted at this link: Frosted Rainbow Flower Beads

It is so relaxing, somehow, and so satisfying to create something from practically nothing with polymer clay, and for it to be beautiful 99% of the time, well, what a kick!  Lol, also, I think the human brain is geared sometimes toward making a concept out to be more difficult than it really is, as per this lovingly simple Pandora-style bead design!!! You made it so easy, Cindy. Never would have thought of adding grommets that way. A very simple and effective way of doing this! I love it that your beads shown look so much like glass and like the “real thing.” ~Becky-C >> This comment was originally posted at this link: Pandora Style Beads

Cindy!  What a neat tute. PLUS – you always add something we didn’t know. You did it again with the glaze. What a pretty finish. I am an acrylic painter as well. So Golden products are my best choices. Thank you sooooooo much for the TIP. I really like Terry’s products, and now his bezels. How much fun it is to learn something new… smile. ~Patt-W >> This comment was originally posted at this link: Stamped and Glazed Bezels

Wow some of these post are really interesting. Some have made me laugh. I am really enjoying this treasure hunt. I like to make small figures and I try to sand the spots that I can but I must tell you it is not one of my favorite thing to do. I am just now getting into making beads. I have noticed a real big difference in the look of beads when I take the time to sand and buff. Buffing is another problem area for me. I haven’t had the problem that Sue had but I am a little afraid of my dremel tool also. ~Linda-G >> This comment was originally posted at this link: Sand Polymer Clay Beads

Tanya – I know what you mean. I did the same thing with my beads. I originally learned PC from books, and they never explain all the little “details” that make such a huge difference! Cindy’s site here is amazing. It made me a much better clayer, and it sounds like it’s helping you, too. Sure you’re having to play catch up, but at least you’re on the right track now! Cindy’s little tricks and tips will help both of us avoid those kind of mistakes in the “Future”. (Sorry about that almost pun!) Also, with you here now, we’ve gained another friend here at this community! :~) ~Phaedrakat >> This comment was originally posted at this link: Wet Sanding Polymer Clay

Well I finally had time to play with the resin over the weekend, after 40 mins of cure time (pour-cure-embed-pour-cure) and an hour and a half of sanding with the Micro Mesh pads due to an uneven second pour on my part, I now have a lovely “water clear” cab with a single dried flower from a Hydrangea blossom embedded inside. ~Ken-H >> This comment was originally posted at this link: Polymer Clay Tutorials

I am so glad to see this tute! I have actually had both the sticks and pads for about a year now. If I had known everything you shared in this video, I would have been using them so much more! ~Carrie-W >> This comment was originally posted at this link: Micro Mesh Abrasives Video

I didn’t purchase the Micromesh finishing liquid, but I did splurge on the sanding swabs and had the most wonderful afternoon using them on some roses. In spite of Cindy’s instructions I have never been able to avoid fingerprints on my petals. These little swabs are the answer to a prayer for people like me. They get down into all those little grooves perfectly. ~Elizabeth-S >> This comment was originally posted at this link: Polymer Clay Micromesh

I just did my first blend and switch pendants. It was so fun! I had to wait because I had to order the blue pearl premo online. Can you believe none of the stores carry that? I found all of the other colors but not blue, ugh! Anyways, I just used the micromesh (for the first time – they came with my UV Resin & oven order) on these pendants, and holy cow, what a difference from sanding with wet/dry paper! So much faster, no blisters and it didn’t kill my nails. Off to try the resin now. ~Laura-Z >> This comment was originally posted at this link: Blend and Switch Technique Video

Excellent tut loaded with good news. Especially love that the silicone sticks to itself after baking… so if you have trouble with it coming out too thin you can fix it. Cannot wait to get out my old jewelry collection, finally a mold that works!!! Thank you Cindy and Doug for a wonderful video, and thanks to you Terry, for making this substance available to us. Order will be in today, lol! Even though you get a near perfect finish on the reverse fopal technique, I’d still sand it and buff it to bring up every sparkling dimension possible. Just great that it requires a lot less sanding. ~Jocelyn-C >> This comment was originally posted at this link: Silicone Molding Techniques

I finally tried the technique after hemming and hawing. Wow! It does give me goosebumps. After the sanding, buffing on old jeans, and future (brushed on, I remember your comment on dripping Cindy) they are stunning. I’m going to put them on handmade earwires, big ones and maybe add some shiny beads. I plan to keep on practicing (I bought so much of the premo pearl colors at Polymer Express since they’ll soon be gone) and experimenting. I’m starting to get the hang of this. And really loving it. Thank you Cindy for all you give and to all the Lietz “family” on this blog who have, through advice and their own struggles, have taught me soooooo much. Stay healthy and happy everyone. ~Trudy-M >> This comment was originally posted at this link: Aurora Technique Video

This is a great Tutorial! The Future wax wasn’t the easiest to apply cleanly, but this minwax looks like it’s pretty much fool proof. ~Jeanne-C >> This comment was originally posted at this link: Finishing Wax as a Bead Polish

The first video I watched about LOS was using the rocks and I did not want to mess with those. When I found out I could get the gel I went for it. I used it the first time on a copper chain mail bracelet which I made from washers and it turned out really nice. I then used it on a silver plated spoon ring and what a difference it made! If you have never used it, please, please watch Cindy’s video a couple of times before you start and follow her instructions. This is really nasty stuff and needs to be handled very carefully but the results are worth it. I used some 00 steel wool to burnish the highlights and then used a polishing cloth for Copper. There are cloths for Silver and for Copper. They don’t recommend using the Silver cloths for Copper. I don’t know why but I got a cloth for each type of metal. I also use a short piece of wire and make a hook to dip it into the LOS if there is a hole in the piece. If I am dipping more than one piece, I count until I have achieved my desired effect. That way I know how long to dip the next piece. Hope all these tips help. Thanks Cindy for a really good tute on the LOS. ~DixieAnn-S >> This comment was originally posted at this link: Liver Of Sulfur Metal Patina

Great tute. Always good to go over the sanding as that’s what makes everything pop. Loved the corded necklace. Thanks for showing how to do it. ~Pollyanna >> This comment was originally posted at this link: Celtic Heart Necklace Video

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